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March 1987, the Harvey Milk Memorial Candlelight March from Castro Street down Market to the Civic Center. Not the greatest pictures, but still a bit of history.
…that I miss San Francisco more than usual.
Opening today, the new T Central Subway line will begin weekend service between the 4th/Brannan and Chinatown – Rose Pak stations. This new line helps connect Chinatown, Union Square, Yerba Buena/Moscone Center, and SOMA. SFMTA
Each station is quintessentially SF with art installations throughout. Pictured here is “Lucy in the Sky” at Union Square/Market St. station. This permanent installation is part of the #IlluminateSF Festival of light
…of the toilets south of the polo field in Golden Gate Park. Although that place was much skeevier. Or so I’d heard. ? (At the time I was living in the Avenues, only a short distance from the place. And Taraval. And Wawona. And the end of Judah Street. But those are stories for a another time.)
And looking over my journals from 1997, apparently I heard quite a bit.
Allegedly.
It was August 1994. The previous two years had taken an emotional toll on me, first with Rory, then with Ron, and it seemed The City had lost much of the magic that had enchanted me upon my arrival nearly ten years earlier. I ached for a change and after returning from a trip to Tucson earlier that summer I started wondering if moving back to Arizona might be what the doctor ordered to cure this ongoing malaise.
After I returned from Tucson and the summer drew on, my dissatisfaction with The City increased. It seemed every aspect of daily life—from the panhandlers to the urine-soaked doorways to the daily commute from hell to the cost of everything—had become an annoyance, so it was a relatively easy decision to cast it all aside and return to the desert southwest.
Once I decided on that course of action, I gave a month’s notice at work and on my apartment with every intention of moving back to Arizona the second week of September, but ultimately it was not to be. At least not this time.
I’ve often said that The City is a very jealous mistress, and my attempts to leave during the next eight years only confirmed it. She does not easily let go of her lovers. And deep down, despite everything, I truly loved The City.
The Saturday before I was scheduled to move, I needed a break from packing, so that evening I decided to head out one last time and get into trouble. Young, hung, and full of cum…or something like that. (Well, two outta three ain’t bad, right?)
I learned about The Playground from my friend Rick (or Miss K.C. Dare as he went by when on stage). With the demise of the 1808 Club a few years previous and not being one who cared for the tubs, I’d been missing the kind of wanton abandon a good old fashioned sex club provided. From Rick’s description, The Playground sounded perfect.
It was. There was something primal about the place, something that was very much liked to our deepest (and yes, I suppose darkest) sexual fantasies. I knew from the moment I stepped into the place that the owners had a gold mine on their hands if the only knew how to keep the ambience alive.
It was a converted warehouse, located on the north side of 17th Street between Folsom and Harrison. The building itself was at the far end of a large parking lot, all grey corrugated metal with yellow painted trim. At night there were two rotating yellow beacons located at the entrance, which was also a loading dock.
When you first entered, to the right was the admission area. When you passed through that, you first entered the television and refreshment area. There were several sofas clustered about a lone TV. If continue toward the back and slightly to the left, the next area you encountered was the gloryhole space. It was a series of black painted cubicles surrounding a raised platform. Naturally, there were more than an ample number of holes drilled between the cubicles and the platform.
Immediately to the right of that area is what I referred to as “the Drive-In.” There was an English taxi of unknown vintage parked there that faced a large projection television that showed the same porn videos that were playing in the television area. Continuing back toward the rear of the building, you entered another area separated by separate separate cubicles. These cubicles had small holes drilled at eye level and surrounded another, smaller room, allowing you to look in and see what’s going on.
Continuing on toward the back of the building, you passed the dungeon on the left that contained a sling and other accountrements. On your right were the restrooms (and yes, they were used for play as well as for their intended function). Continuing down a set of stairs, there were three more spaces: the jail (four cells complete with bunks and stainless steel toilets), the “infirmary”, and a small room with a bed and a single lone light bulb. I remembered there was something very eerie and uncomfortable bout being in those two rear rooms, even if you were totally alone. I never lingered there.
And the soundtrack to this debauchery? It was The Pet Shop Boys‘ recently released Relentless half of Very/Relentless.
And as far as what exactly happened that night, let’s just say I came home a very satisfied man.
During what was ostensibly my last week in San Francisco, I took Wednesday off and ran errands that morning, noticing the fog spilling over Twin Peaks as I drove down Dolores Street. As I got out onto the 280 Freeway (I was heading to Target to get a cooler in which to transport my tropical fish), I realized that this was probably going to be the last time I was on that highway.
A certain melancholy descended upon me as my continued my errands, picking up items I knew I wouldn’t be able to find once I left Oz. By the time I returned home, I was severely depressed. I was just about ready to call it all quits and bail out of the move, but I realized I couldn’t. It was too late. I had to go through with it.
The next night I hooked up with an especially handsome man whom I’d met the prior Sunday while I was out washing my car in front of my building as one is wont to do in San Francisco. He was walking down the sidewalk. We locked eyes, and to my utter surprise he’d paused and started up a conversation. We had dinner and ended up in my bed. What was I doing? I was leaving the fucking city in less than a week, and here I was going on a date with an impossibly good looking man who seemed quite enchanted with me and expressed great disappointment that this was only going to be a one-night thing.
After he left, coupled with the doubts that reared themselves the day before, I found myself wondering why the hell I was leaving San Francisco. Was it really too late? During the weeks that led up to all of this, my friend Stan was fond of telling me it was never too late to change my mind. I wondered if he might be right.
I sat down to write in my journal later that evening, but didn’t get more than a paragraph completed. I’d started writing about everything that had happened that week: the unabashed lure of The Playground, meeting Peter, the realization that I really did have friends there who didn’t want me to leave, the magic that continued to come into my life in various forms—and I wrote, “I can’t leave!” I broke down and cried.
And then, at a little past midnight, I made a decision. I wasn’t going anywhere. No matter what it cost, I was not going to say goodbye to my beloved San Francisco. The only problem was I was caught in a financial Catch-22. I had to leave my job in order to remain in San Francisco. I needed the severance money they were giving me in order to pay the two months rent I needed to stay in my apartment. I didn’t relish the idea of leaving the firm that had become my family over the previous eight years, but I also knew from my conversation with my boss a week earlier that staying on was probably not an option. No matter. It would force me to find a position doing more computer and less (hopefully much less) architecture.
What I wasn’t prepared for when I told him of my decision the next day was the fact that he wanted to keep me on—and would be willing to loan me the money to pay my rent so I could stay. Now that is something you just don’t find in today’s workplace.
I accepted.
Friday afternoon we closed the office early and I came home and started putting my apartment back together. IT was no easy talk, although the unpacking did go much more quickly than the packing had. By that evening the living room had pretty much been returned to normal. By dinner time on Saturday, the rest of the place was put away. Instead of driving down I-5 heading toward Los Angeles, I was busy putting my track lights (it was the 90s, after all) back up and reinstalling all the flat switches and electrical outlets I’d swapped out only days earlier.
Of course, it seemed like the moment I got resettled, all that magic disappeared like the fog burning off each morning.
Peter—who seemed at first so disappointed that I was leaving San Francisco—became cagey. After telling him I’d decided to stay, I tried several times to set up a second date but his excuse was always “too busy at the moment” to get together. I finally wrote him off. If there was one thing I learned through that whole transformative process of leaving and then at the last minute stepping back from the brink is that I no longer had time to waste with bullshit like that.
And the magic that was The Playground? It too dried up, although not as quickly. While I had one more magical night at the venue, it seemed with each subsequent visit, the quality of the clientele and the encounters themselves dropped precipitously until I reached the point where it was more satisfying to simply stay home and jerk off by myself.
And that is why I say San Francisco is a jealous mistress…
From Diary of a Fat Slob:
…In the late afternoon, there was BS from a different direction. Four Jesus freaks started working the pedestrians at my corner, sharing their tall tales of what wretched sinners they’d been before Jesus H Christ made them such swell people. They didn’t just stand at the corner, they wandered around, preaching at people near the corner, which included me. One of them leaned over my table to complain about the sacrilegious fish, and added that Jesus loves me anyway.
“I love Him too,” I said. “Why, I’ve been a Christian for twenty years, and I teach Sunday School at the Nazarene Church two blocks thataway.” A 24-carat lie, of course, but it was the best line I could think of to bluff his bluster, and it seemed to work. He looked at the JR ‘Bob’ Dobbs fish I was wearing on my hat, couldn’t reconcile it with what I’d just told him, and walked away confused, to bother other people instead.
The four of them took turns standing on a milk crate, preaching to the heathens of downtown Berkeley, but we heathens weren’t very interested, and I don’t think they made any sales or conversions.
There was a great moment that started when a panhandler in rags flashed them the Satan sign (index and pinky fingers up, which I wouldn’t have known if Sarah-Katherine hadn’t shown me (and thank you, dear)). The Christians saw the sign of Satan, were greatly offended, and one of them started screaming at the panhandler, so he stood on a very sturdy trash can and started counter-preaching their preaching.
“The Bible is full of lies,” he hollered, “and Christians have killed more people than Hitler.” Probably true, though I haven’t seen the stats.
One of the Christians started screaming at the homeless guy, “You don’t deserve His love, but God loves you!”
And this shaggy, skinny, bearded man — in sandals, yet — screamed right back, “Don’t listen to them! They’re Christians, and Christians are fools!”
“Oh yeah, listen to a homeless wino instead,” one of the Christians screamed back.
The wino hoisted his paper-bag-wrapped bottle above his head and whooped, “At least this is something real! Maybe I worship a bottle but you fuckers worship thin air!”
“We worship the one true God!” one or two of them shouted back.
“I’ll drink to that,” said the bum, and he did.
“He’ll drink to that,” said one of the Jesus Freaks derisively, and another said, “The only thing you believe in is that bottle!”
The bum lowered the bottle, looked at it lovingly, shook his head and said, “Praise the Lord.”
All this quickly devolved into so many shouts — “Worship the whiskey” and “May God forgive you” and “He’ll forgive me as he’s licking my ass” — I couldn’t take notes quickly enough. Four street preachers against one unbelieving bum, and after a few minutes the bum mellowed and went back to panhandling. Gotta make a living.
“I’m going to Hell,” he said, “so I’m gonna be thirsty. Spare change for a beer?”
The witch vendor next to me said something disparaging about the guy, so I gave him five bucks, a cookie from my lunch bag, and a pat on the back. He said thanks and vanished.
…of a boy who called San Francisco home at the same time I did. For all I know this is the boy, as the vintage of the photo—not to mention that ‘stache—certainly seems on point. For the longest time I only referred to him as “Mr. Mustache” (for obvious reasons).
The night before the gay parade in 1988 I spotted him wander into The Detour as I was walking up Market Street. The Detour wasn’t really my cup of tea, but I followed him in and after he’d made a circuit around the bar, he turned around and left. I don’t know if he was looking for someone specifically, or if no one piqued his interest.
Undeterred, I also left the bar and followed him further up Market to where he’d parked his car. As he was walking a couple guys passed him and yelled, “Hey Chuck!”
Chuck. I could finally attach a name to the boy.
I ran into him again later that summer at—of all places—The Whispering Bushes at the end of Golden Gate Park. We didn’t hook up, but we started talking as we walked along the main path and ended up crossing the Great Highway to sit on the sea wall bordering Ocean Beach to watch the sun set. As I recall he was having boyfriend problems and just needed someone to talk to. I obliged.
After the sun slipped under the horizon he thanked me for listening, and said he needed to get home. We exchanged names but not phone numbers, and never did hook up—although afterward he always greeted me with a warm smile whenever our paths crossed.
Admittedly I experienced San Francisco long after Herb Caen had shuffled off this mortal coil, but nonetheless, SF of the mid 80s thru the end of the century still held the magic of which Caen wrote. Yes, we were surrounded by death in the 90s but that magic still seemed to permeate The City in the face of the abject horror that was decimating our community.
While I have not returned since I left in the spring of 2002, I have a good feeling from those who remain that a lot of that wonder has disappeared, fueled in no part by the ultra-wealthy moving in and taking over every inch of those 49 square miles.
Yeah, there have always been ultra-wealthy in San Francisco, but during my time there they were still ensconced in their mansions and towers on Nob Hill and Russian Hill. The rest of the city was still relatively affordable and I couldn’t spend as freely as I’d like, I was able to make decent living and afford a one-bedroom apartment on my own on the $35-45K a year I earned during my tenure there. And parts of the city (while geographically undesirable to me for whatever reason) were quite affordable.
That’s no longer true.
Do I miss it? In many ways yes, but in an equal number of ways, no. Will it always have a special place in my heart? Unquestionably, yes.
Memories of sixteen years of daily commutes via the MUNI Embarcadero Station.
I’m surprised it still looks the same as it did the last time I rode the train in 2002…
I ran across these clips on Instagram after searching “Embarcadero Station San Francisco”—which led me down a whole new rabbit hole of adventures.
While so much of SF has changed over the last twenty years, via Instagram I was just as surprised to see how much has stubbornly remained the same as I remember.

“San Francisco is my home. I love The City and The City loves me back.” This was a personal affirmation—my mantra if you will—for the first couple years I lived there because as much as I’d like to think I took to the city like fish to water, my ex is always quick to point out the transition was not painless…
And this pic that means this other one is definitely fake. Sigh.
As most of my readers already know, I lived in San Francisco for approximately sixteen years, encompassing my late 20s through early 40s.
The other morning, while laying awake at 4 am, memories of San Francisco started bubbling up. I don’t know if it was my age/hormone level at the time I lived there, or whether it is something about The City itself, but going over my memories of San Francisco I came to the disturbing realization that the vast majority of those memories—okay, pretty much all my memories of life in San Francisco—revolved around getting laid or trying to get laid…under the guise of looking for true love, of course.
Naturally, during my time there I worked. I made friends. I went to movies and plays. I took photos, made art, read books, acquired new skills, spent way too much money on way too much stuff, and explored the natural beauty of the Bay Area. But it seems all that was nothing more than background noise amid the unrelenting need to connect.
I would like to think that I fell into that lifestyle over the course of several years, but if I’m being totally honest, I have to admit it started almost the minute boots were on the ground.
While I did date and had several serial boyfriends, the smorgasbord of carnal delights and availability of potential sexual partners literally anywhere in the City is no doubt why so many refer to those 49 square miles as “Disneyland for Adults” and none of those relationships actually lasted. “Cruisin’ the Streets” is more than just an old Boys Town Gang song. You could connect with someone on the subway, waiting for the bus, on your lunch hour downtown, walking home after work—and either go right to your/their place, make plans to meet up later, or duck into an empty stairwell for a quickie; literally anywhere. Buena Vista Park, North Baker Beach, “the whispering bushes” and the southern convenience station at the polo field at the western end of Golden Gate Park, the Hyatt Embarcadero, the 1808 Club, the Shaklee building, the 11th Floor of the Russ Building, The Playground, the Sir Francis Drake, Mike’s Night Gallery, the Sheraton Palace…
You get the idea. There was a lot of action going on in The City. All. The. Time.
Inspired to start keeping a record of my life in San Francisco after seeing Prick Up Your Ears about a year after my arrival there, my journals read like an embarrassing, depressing erotic novel, full of saucy but ultimately empty encounters, littered with the names of men of whom I now have no conscious memory. (Oh, to have had cell phone cameras back then!)
I can’t help but think that in the wake of 9/11 and the added security everywhere that followed, most of those locales have long since been locked down, but I know how industrious and creative horny men can be, and despite the authorities’ best efforts, trysts will still happen somewhere.
Before I moved to San Francisco, when my friend Kent (who had arrived about six years earlier) once related how he stopped to have sex with some guy he met while on the way to a date with another, I was appalled. I could not understand how such a thing could happen, much less that anyone would actually partake. Note I said before I moved there…
While that particular scenario never happened to me, it was apparently not that uncommon, and I had plenty of other equally lascivious encounters during that decade and a half to make up for it. To this day I’m still amazed that I made it out alive, somehow remained STD/AIDS free, and didn’t end up with a police record.











San Francisco, September 1993
A photographic record of the morning commute from my apartment to the Levi Strauss Corporate Headquarters, San Francisco October 2000. Taken with a Sony Mavica digital camera that used a floppy disk for storage (hence the poor quality).
I didn’t take the underground with this gig because the surface trolly would basically drop me at Levi’s doorstep. I would, however, often transfer to the underground on the way home.
Did I ever mention that on one of those evening commutes, while still on the trolly (coming as it was from the tourist destination Fisherman’s Wharf), Mark Hamill—Mr. Luke Skywalker himself—and his family were on board? AND HE FLIRTED WITH ME?!? I think I displayed an incredible amount of self-control and respected his privacy by not asking for an autograph. Were his family not there, however, who knows what would’ve happened? It might’ve been a story for the ages!
As promised, a story I promised some time ago…
I stumbled upon Rosie’s within months of arriving in San Francisco in 1986. I was in the Castro on a Saturday morning, looking for a place to grab lunch and as I walked down 18th Street I came across Rosie’s and it looked intriguing. I remember I ordered the California burrito, and from that first bite I knew I was in love.
San Francisco burritos (no matter where you get them) are a very distinct and unique breed. Some say they’re the best burritos to be had anywhere. Not having lived that many places over the course of my life, I can say unequivocally however that they are the best burritos I’ve ever had. I’ve found a few that come close, but fail to meet the San Francisco standard.
Over the course of the sixteen years I lived in The City, I must’ve conservatively eaten at Rosie’s 1886 times, based on 1-2 times a week for those entire sixteen years. I used to joke I would want a Rosie’s burrito to be my last meal.
Rosie’s in long closed (now longer than the entire time it was originally open), so I’ll never have another opportunity to enjoy a meal there, but it doesn’t matter. All I have to do is close my eyes and I can taste those delicious burritos. (To be honest, everything on the menu was excellent, but I gravitated toward the burritos more often than not.)
The owners of Rosie’s also had a burrito shop on Haight Street (the name escapes me at the moment)—which, for some reason I never knew of until I started going to Amoeba Records. I often ate there when I was in the neighborhood, but it wasn’t quite the same.
I regret that I did not start recording my adventures in San Francisco for posterity until more than a year after I arrived, so you’ll have to forgive me if my memories of my first visit to the Russian River are a little hazy. Specifically, the name of the hot guy with the mouthwatering uncut cock who first took me there completely eludes me. (It’s odd the things we do remember, isn’t it?)
I’d spent most of my first summer in San Francisco at the beach; officially Marshall’s Beach, but unofficially “No Name” or “Boy” or less commonly, “North Baker” (photos here). It was a strip of clothing-optional sand north of Baker Beach and south of the Golden Gate Bridge where men of a certain persuasion would go to get some UV (and if they were lucky, slobber) on their naughty bits.
It was there that one afternoon I hooked up with a British ex-pat who, after we were done making the baby Jesus cry, asked if I’d ever been to the nude beach at the Russian River. I told him I knew of the Russian River, but except for passing through Guerneville, I actually hadn’t been there yet, and certainly not to the nude beach.
We made a date for the following weekend, and drove north. We turned off of River Road and onto Wohler, winding our way through wineries until we came upon Wohler Bridge. We drove past the bridge and parked on a spur of pavement just north of the turnoff. Judging from the number of cars parked, this was definitely the spot.
It was a little bit of a hike to the beach itself; something that my 29-year old body handled with ease. (It would probably kill me if I attempted it now.) A well-trodden trail led through a beautiful grove of trees until it dumped us out in an expansive field (pictures 1 & 2 above). We crossed the field, and after passing through another small grove of trees, found ourselves at a small rock-strewn beach (pictures 3, 4, & 5) on the river—already bursting at the seam with naked and semi-naked homosexuals. There was no place remaining to lay out our towels, so we headed back to the field and found a spot in the grass where we could spread out and get some sun.
I don’t remember what ultimately happened between me and my British ex-pat, but I will forever remember him as the guy who introduced me to this magical place. I returned by myself several more times as the years passed, discovering that naked boys in the forest were there for reasons other than simply enjoying the sensation of wind on their bare skin…
Rumor had it that the property at the time was owned by Fred MacMurry, who apparently had no issue with cute nekkid menz traipsing around his field and forest. Even though the property was posted as “private” no one had ever been hassled for trespassing.
In recounting this, I headed over to Google Maps to take a peek at what the place looks like now. I was devastated. There is now a gate barring access to the area from Wohler Road. The one-time grassy field is gone, now dotted with trees and shrubs. A road has been constructed to the west of where the field had been, leading to some kind of maintenance building, and while there appears to still be a footpath through the former field leading to the river, the beach is nowhere to be found. I suppose I shouldn’t be too surprised. It has been 33 years since I last visited, and Fred himself has been dead since 1991. Changes to the property were bound to occur…