From the Analog Archives: Around the Hood (and Beyond)

We'll call this "Hell on Fell" and leave it at that.
Hickory & Laguna (the green space to the right has been replaced with…you guessed it! CONDOS!
388 Market, my favorite building in The City
The Shaklee Building – If Walls Could Talk
"Tweezer Towers" aka The Manarin Hotel
My View From "Hell on Fell"
Hermann Street, Across from the US Mint
Page & Buchanan, Northeast Corner
Lily & Buchanan, Northeast Corner
Haight & Buchanan, Northeast Corner (Google tells me the building is much more colorful now.)
Duboce & Church Looking Northwest

San Francisco, September 1993

Early Digital Photography: My Morning Commute

A photographic record of the morning commute from my apartment to the Levi Strauss Corporate Headquarters, San Francisco October 2000. Taken with a Sony Mavica digital camera that used a floppy disk for storage (hence the poor quality).

I didn't take the underground with this gig because the surface trolly would basically drop me at Levi's doorstep. I would, however, often transfer to the underground on the way home.

Did I ever mention that on one of those evening commutes, while still on the trolly (coming as it was from the tourist destination Fisherman's Wharf), Mark Hamill—Mr. Luke Skywalker himself—and his family were on board? AND HE FLIRTED WITH ME?!? I think I displayed an incredible amount of self-control and respected his privacy by not asking for an autograph. Were his family not there, however, who knows what would've happened? It might've been a story for the ages!

1886 Burritos

As promised, a story I promised some time ago

I stumbled upon Rosie's within months of arriving in San Francisco in 1986. I was in the Castro on a Saturday morning, looking for a place to grab lunch and as I walked down 18th Street I came across Rosie's and it looked intriguing. I remember I ordered the California burrito, and from that first bite I knew I was in love.

San Francisco burritos (no matter where you get them) are a very distinct and unique breed. Some say they're the best burritos to be had anywhere. Not having lived that many places over the course of my life, I can say unequivocally however that they are the best burritos I've ever had. I've found a few that come close, but fail to meet the San Francisco standard.

Over the course of the sixteen years I lived in The City, I must've conservatively eaten at Rosie's 1886 times, based on 1-2 times a week for those entire sixteen years. I used to joke I would want a Rosie's burrito to be my last meal.

Rosie's in long closed (now longer than the entire time it was originally open), so I'll never have another opportunity to enjoy a meal there, but it doesn't matter. All I have to do is close my eyes and I can taste those delicious burritos. (To be honest, everything on the menu was excellent, but I gravitated toward the burritos more often than not.)

The owners of Rosie's also had a burrito shop on Haight Street (the name escapes me at the moment)—which, for some reason I never knew of until I started going to Amoeba Records. I often ate there when I was in the neighborhood, but it wasn't quite the same.

Memories

I regret that I did not start recording my adventures in San Francisco for posterity until more than a year after I arrived, so you'll have to forgive me if my memories of my first visit to the Russian River are a little hazy. Specifically, the name of the hot guy with the mouthwatering uncut cock who first took me there completely eludes me. (It's odd the things we do remember, isn't it?)

I'd spent most of my first summer in San Francisco at the beach; officially Marshall's Beach, but unofficially "No Name" or "Boy" or less commonly, "North Baker" (photos here). It was a strip of clothing-optional sand north of Baker Beach and south of the Golden Gate Bridge where men of a certain persuasion would go to get some UV (and if they were lucky, slobber) on their naughty bits.

It was there that one afternoon I hooked up with a British ex-pat who, after we were done making the baby Jesus cry, asked if I'd ever been to the nude beach at the Russian River. I told him I knew of the Russian River, but except for passing through Guerneville, I actually hadn't been there yet, and certainly not to the nude beach.

We made a date for the following weekend, and drove north. We turned off of River Road and onto Wohler, winding our way through wineries until we came upon Wohler Bridge. We drove past the bridge and parked on a spur of pavement just north of the turnoff. Judging from the number of cars parked, this was definitely the spot.

It was a little bit of a hike to the beach itself; something that my 29-year old body handled with ease. (It would probably kill me if I attempted it now.) A well-trodden trail led through a beautiful grove of trees until it dumped us out in an expansive field (pictures 1 & 2 above). We crossed the field, and after passing through another small grove of trees, found ourselves at a small rock-strewn beach (pictures 3, 4, & 5) on the river—already bursting at the seam with naked and semi-naked homosexuals. There was no place remaining to lay out our towels, so we headed back to the field and found a spot in the grass where we could spread out and get some sun.

I don't remember what ultimately happened between me and my British ex-pat, but I will forever remember him as the guy who introduced me to this magical place. I returned by myself several more times as the years passed, discovering that naked boys in the forest were there for reasons other than simply enjoying the sensation of wind on their bare skin…

 

Rumor had it that the property at the time was owned by Fred MacMurry, who apparently had no issue with cute nekkid menz traipsing around his field and forest. Even though the property was posted as "private" no one had ever been hassled for trespassing.

In recounting this, I headed over to Google Maps to take a peek at what the place looks like now. I was devastated. There is now a gate barring access to the area from Wohler Road. The one-time grassy field is gone, now dotted with trees and shrubs. A road has been constructed to the west of where the field had been, leading to some kind of maintenance building, and while there appears to still be a footpath through the former field leading to the river, the beach is nowhere to be found. I suppose I shouldn't be too surprised. It has been 33 years since I last visited, and Fred himself has been dead since 1991. Changes to the property were bound to occur…

The Earth Shook, The Sky Burned

(With apologies to William Bronson)

October 17, 1989

Jack and Nick (my bosses, and co-owners of the four-person architectural firm where I had been working for the previous two and a half years) had left the office earlier that afternoon to "discuss business" at the pub a few doors down the street. I wasn't feeling particularly inspired to do any work, and since the only other member of our little professional family, Neill, was absent for some reason, I made the executive decision to close up shop at 4:30 and head home. I had received the repaired video card from my computer in the mail that day and was anxious to get it put back in so I could enjoy the newly purchased NEC "Multisync" monitor I'd picked up at a computer show that previous weekend.

It was a typically balmy autumn afternoon in San Francisco, and I enjoyed the two block walk up 2nd Street to Market, where I went downstairs to MUNI and caught one of the K, L, or M cars outbound which would deposit me at the Van Ness Station for my four block walk home to 12th & Folsom. (Yes, I lived "right around the corner" from the SF Eagle and yet I had only ventured in a handful of times over my tenure at that location.)

After getting off at Van Ness and walking down 12th just past Mission, one of my contact lenses decided to ride up on the top of my eye. As I paused to try and dislodge it, the ground started moving. Having been on the earthquake simulator platform at the Academy of Sciences numerous times, I knew exactly what this was and struggled to keep my balance. At the same time, my contact lens slid back down and I looked across the street to see the billboard above the parking lot at the corner—one of those cantilevered things that was supported on only one end—start bounding up and down. I heard glass breaking, a few people screaming and then, as soon as everything started, it ended.

The stop lights at Howard and at Folsom were both out. When I got home, I quickly saw that power was out there as well. My housemate Frank—who had moved in with me several weeks earlier and whose constant presence (he had just lost his job) was already putting a strain on our relationship (another story for another time), seemed nonchalant about the whole thing and was busy mopping up water that had spilled out of the aquarium.

Remembering what I'd been told about things to do after an earthquake, I grabbed my pipe wrench and headed down to the basement to turn off the gas. I initially turned our's off, but after a couple hours, with no one in the building smelling any gas, I went back downstairs and turned it back on so we could at least cook dinner.

Obviously the power didn't come back on, so I didn't get to enjoy my new monitor, but we had candles, and Frank had a battery-powered radio so we were at least able to stay abreast of what was happening and counted ourselves very lucky as the spotty reports of the damage starting coming in: the Bay Bridge, the Marina (we could see the smoke rising from our living room windows), and the Cypress Freeway in the east Bay. I thought back to all the times I'd driven that freeway that had pancaked…

I phoned my mom to let her know I was okay within minutes of arriving home. After I hung up with her, I phoned my dad to make sure he was okay (he was also living in San Francisco at the time). He was fine as well—a little shaken but okay. I was glad I called Mom when I did, because when I tried to call again about fifteen minutes later, I got the perpetual "All circuits are busy. Please try your call again later," message each time I tried.

As night fell over the city, it was indeed very dark. The only lights seen on Twin Peaks was the dim flickering of thousands of candles. By 10 pm, they were mostly all extinguished and the light of the just-past-full moon was illuminating the city in an eerie glow I'd never seen before.

Neither Frank or I were overly concerned. We and the cats had plenty of food in the house and we stayed out of the refrigerator and freezer to conserve the cold until the power came back on. It was a little odd sleeping without the constant din of the traffic on Folsom or the quiet whirring of the bedroom fan, but I managed.

The next morning there was still no power. I held out hope it would be on sometime that day since Dad told me his—and in fact, much of the city's—electricity had been restored sometime during the night. I was able to get hold of everyone from work, and they were also okay. I was told to not attempt to come downtown. Jack and Nick had returned to the office right after the rumbling stopped and discovered the office was a mess. They couldn't get the security gate at the entrance to our suite open, but they were able to go through the entrance of the structural engineering office next door.  They peeked over the partitions and saw that all the not-fastened-to-the-wall bookcases which had lined the entire south wall of our space had toppled, and while the building itself was not (yet) red-tagged, they didn't want to risk having anyone in there; the cleanup could wait.

Frank was in a pouty mood because of the power still being out, and since I didn't want to deal with it, I ignored my employers' recommendations to just stay home and I headed out to explore.

Hoping to find an open restaurant to grab a bite to eat, I walked up to Market Street hoping to catch a train to the Castro. Surprisingly, the underground MUNI was running—albeit with only limited service between the Embarcadero and Van Ness stations, so riding a train to the Castro wasn't an option. I hopped on a bus, and while not unexpected based on what Dad had told me about the rest of the city, power was on in the Castro,  but every restaurant that was open was mobbed.  And quite unexpectedly, there was a strong, bizarre sexual electricity in the air; it seemed like every beautiful man in the city was out cruising and looking to get laid. I finally gave up hope of getting something to eat, and left went back home, stopping to grab a sandwich at Ted's Market on Howard Street.  

By the time I arrived home Frank was gone, also out exploring.

The next day—with the power still unrestored—and myself now caught up in that weird sexual energy and horny as fuck, I went downtown looking for trouble and was surprised to discover that most of my usual haunts were open, and let me tell ya…they were hopping.

I can quite honestly say that I wasn't frightened during the ordeal.  It was more exciting than anything else.  And despite the inconvenience of being without power for what turned into 36 hours, I can say it was quite a break in the day-to-day monotony of my life.  Granted, it wasn't quite as big a break as if giant UFOs had appeared over the world's cities, but it came damn close.

Believe It Or Not…

Believe it or not, I once dated a porn star. Okay…a "male adult model." He wasn't a top-tier or well-known by any means. He didn't do any films (that I know of), and only appeared in one issue of Advocate Men, but from the moment I first saw him on the cover of that magazine in June 1986, I knew our paths would eventually cross—even though at the time I had no idea where or when that might happen. The bio in the magazine said "Justin Banks" was a landscape architect who lived in San Francisco. I was still living in Tucson, and while the cogs were definitely in motion for my eventual relation to SF, nothing was yet firmly in place.

Of course all that changed in the blink of an eye and I found myself a resident of The City two months later…and not six weeks after that "Justin" and I passed on the street as he and some friends were leaving the Midnight Sun. Our eyes locked. I smiled. He smiled back. I stopped and glanced back over my shoulder, but he kept walking down the street with his buddies. And that was the end of it.

Or so I thought.

The following February a friend and I were at a toy store in Corta Madera called The Imaginarium, where we spotted "Justin" working behind the counter. So much for being a landscape architect…

His eyes lit up when he saw me and immeidately came over. He definitely remembered our two-ships-passing moment, telling me that after he'd dropped his friends at their car that night he came back to try and find me, but I'd already disappeared into the night. He introduced himself with his real name (Michael Rose) and gave me his phone number. "Call me."

The rest is now ancient history, but we ended up dating for a few months. And all I can say about that is Michael taught me a valuable life lesson: NEVER date porn stars—excuse me, "male adult models"—not even the B-Listers.

Then and Now

6th & Market, San Francisco CA

1963

2021

Not the best "now" photo. It was grabbed from Google Street View and it was either this one with the UPS truck parked illegally, or another one with an even bigger delivery truck blocking almost the entire scene…

Wayback Machine

Al Parker and Will Seagers

This picture was posted on Instagram yesterday by @robzstuff57 and it immediately took me back to my first few years in San Francisco.

Sometime in 1989 I ran into Al Parker at the Whispering Bushes at the end of Golden Gate Park. He took a liking to me, following like a lost puppy. It was obvious he wasn't going to give up the chase and I ended up leaving the venue altogether just to ditch him.

I can hear you all now: "You turned down AL PARKER?!" Yes, my faithful readers. I did. I thought, "No way Al—I've seen what you've done with your dick and where it's been and NO THANK YOU!"

Around the same time, I was at aThai restaurant on 24th Street in Noe Valley one evening and Will Seagers (of L.A. Tool & Die fame) walked in with friends. We locked eyes and spent the rest of the evening flirting. Nothing came of it, but it was definitely an ego boost.

To this day I am gobsmacked that I survived the 20 years I called San Francicso home and somehow managed to come out of it alive and HIV negative…

Of course, it was also there that I probably came in contact with HPV and the resulting laryngeal cancer that sprang from it, so I can't say I was completely unscathed.

 

I Never…

…went to the tubs because I wasn't that kind of boy in my 20s. Drop to my knees at the gloryhole at the Univeristy of Arizona Main library yes, but go to a bathhouse? Never!

Until we moved to San Francisco and I discovered the 1808 Club.

The 1808 wasn't a bathhouse per se. The 1808 was among the first of many "sex clubs" that rose up in the City following the closure of all traditional bathhouses in the mid 80s. It differed from a bathhouse in that there were no private rooms and the only acceptable (and yes, it was monitored) interaction between patrons was jacking off, but it was still insanely hot. Lots of very hot men more than willing to lend a well-lubed hand when needed.

From an entry in my August 1991 Journal:

It's been an interesting evening.  I went to the 1808 Club.  I hadn't been there in over four years, and it was like becoming reacquainted with an old friend.  Some things had changed, but for the most part it's still the same as it was.  There wasn't anyone there I especially wanted to set up house with, but there were a few hunks running around; none of whom wanted anything to do with me.  But that's fine.  It's one of those places where you can still stare at 'em and whack off anyway; like live porn.

I don't know especially why I went…I just had a need to get naked with a bunch of naked men.  Probably some sort of unconscious male-bonding thing.  Yeah, right.  I wasn't especially horny, but the thought of spending another Saturday night at home didn't appeal to me, and neither did going to the Night Gallery.*  I sure as hell didn't want to deal with attitude and smoke in some Castro bar.  Sure, there was attitude at the 1808, but at least you got to look at all the wonderful glistening naked bodies and  throbbing cocks!  It was kinda magical and the music was excellent.

*a.k.a. Mike's Night Gallery, another story for another time…

You Can Never Go Home

It was rather slow at work yesterday, so after reimaging a PC that had come back in, when it was finished I fired up Windows maps. I never realized that the app had a street view like Google, so for kicks I flew over San Francisco and dropped in on my one-time home.

I'd visited downtown several times via Google (getting totally lost and not recognizing a thing any more), but for some reason I'd never ventured into my old hoods. It was near lunchtime and I was hungry, so I decided to take a peek at some of my old haunts.

I got sad very quickly.

You know you're old when you can't find any of the places you used to visit on a regular basis because they've been sold, repurposed, or completely torn down to make room for yet more overpriced condos.

Sparky's on Church Street is one example that lept out at me. Microsoft's street view was from 2014 and the place seemed to still be in business, although the vegetarian place just up the street seemed to have changed hands. Knowing Google's views were more recent I switched over and to my disappointment saw that Sparky's was now closed and the space was marked "for lease."

This of course led me on a web search to learn it's fate, and I discovered it's been closed nearly four years, most recently shut down by the Health Department for various violations. (TBH, not surprising.)

So then I "wandered" up Market Street. Sweet Inspiration was also gone. When I lived in the City, that was the preferred spot to meet up with someone you just met from AOL or one of the many gay BBS boards before actually getting down to business. (Yes, Virginia, I'm that old.)

Streetlight Records, while still appearing on the 2014 street view image on Google, is gone.

Just like downtown, Upper Market was basically unrecognizable to me. The spot formerly occupied by Tower Records (which was obviously in distress when I left the City in 2002) is now a CVS Pharmacy. The hole in the ground at the corner of Market and Noe was now (finally!) filled in with new housing. My favorite Chinese place in the Castro, House of Chen—which I'd gone to almost as many times as Rosie's Cantina*—was on street view, but a further search revealed that it too, had been shuttered.

Don't even get me started on Castro Street itself.

Let's just say that by the time I tore myself away from this virtual visit, I was heartbroken to see what had happened to my city and the neighborhoods I had called home. A lot of unresolved emotions were triggered, and I was forced to admit that the sixteen years I lived there were not really as happy and carefree as I'd like to remember; there was a profound loneliness underlying my time in The City (explaining some of the questionable choices I'd made and equally questionable things I'd done while there) and I really have no desire to ever go back.

I used to say that there are two San Franciscos that live in my consciousness: the one that lives in my memories and the one that lives in my dreams (aspects of that place are always off the rails). But I fear I must add a third; the City I no longer recognize.

I discussed this with Ben last night, and he pointed out that the changes that have happened in Phoenix since our return from Denver are just as jarring when you step outside the insulation of daily life living here. No doubt we would both be shocked if we'd returned now, not having lived through the ongoing changes of the last five years, and I'm sure that if I'd somehow remained in SF, the changes I see there now would also seem just as natural.

 

*I thought I'd posted about Rosie's some time ago, but apparently that was in the blog that I'd deleted before we moved to Denver. I'll have to post it again…

Prime Time (Part Two)

While the drama had been brewing with Emmett, I'd been in touch with a my longtime friend Michael in San Francisco. He and I had met on an inbound MUNI train years earlier, and after a couple romps in the hay we both came to the realization that we both carried too much baggage that didn't match and we'd probably be better off as friends than lovers. When I'd made the decision it was time to return to Bagdad By The Bay, he suggested I move in with him until I found a place of my own. "I have big house all to myself. You'd have your own room downstairs and I'd be glad to have the company."

Your host and Mary, my ex's mom, who really didn't want me to leave Tucson.

Michael lived out in the Avenues. Not my first choice of where in the city I'd ever want to live, but his offer to crash there until I found work and got a place of my own was too good to pass up. So, the first weekend in December, Michael flew down (to drive my car while I drove the rental truck) to Tucson and helped me pack up, load the truck and get out of town.

As I recall, a job arrived pretty quickly, even though I wasn't able to return to the firm I'd worked for the previous eight years. I still wasn't able to transition into PC support, but a job's a job and since I had the architectural and AutoCAD skillz, any port in a storm, y'know?

Unfortunately, instead of staying put at that prestigious national firm, when the opportunity arose for me to go elsewhere  and actually get my foot in the door doing computer support work, I jumped on it.

While I prided myself on my PC knowledge, I soon found out I was in over my head. I knew the ins-and-outs of Microsoft Word, but not to the degree required by a Law Firm. Additionally it was a whole new world for me to be dealing with end users, many of whom were difficult at best and—being a Law Firm—hellspawn at worst. I got minimal support from the two other people on the Help Desk and next to none from my supervisor. I was miserable.

In one of those odd twists of fate, however, one day while returning from lunch, I ran into a guy I'd worked with in Phoenix twelve years earlier. I knew Fred had relocated to San Francisco, but lost touch with him shortly after he left the firm where we both worked.

Fred now had his own business. We chatted briefly and I told him of my employment woes. "I'm looking for people," he said. "Here's my card. Come by next week and we'll see if we can come to a mutually beneficial agreement."

And thus began two years of employment hell that was to send me back to Arizona again.

(To be continued…)

Prime Time (Part One)

I still find it hard to believe that 1990 was thirty years ago.

As the calendar turned over from 1989 to 1990, I was a little over a year into my thirties, a time in life that my dad often told me would be my best.

Unfortunately it wasn't.

If the specter of AIDS and friends dropping dead almost weekly weren't enough of a "prime time" buzzkill, I wasted a good portion of the decade pining over a man who would never—who could never—be the man I so desperately wanted him to be.

From the moment our eyes first locked on the outbound L-train at the Montgomery MUNI station, I knew he was going to be trouble. That did not, however, prevent me from bounding off the train after he turned and winked at me when he got off at the Civic Center station—even though it wasn't my stop and getting a seat on the next outbound train was going to be a bitch.

To this day I still don't know what lesson the Rory Hansen affair was meant to teach me. While he admitted shortly after we met to once having a problem with crystal meth, he assured me that he was clean and everything was under control. Nothing in his behavior indicated otherwise, so I took him at his word. It wasn't until a year or so later that his behavior changed, no doubt prompted in no small part by my own manic behavior in trying to get him to commit to something more than just casual dating. There was a lot going on behind the scenes (his bisexuality, his continuing deep emotional attachment to his tweeker ex) as well, and it was obvious it was not under control. When we finally split up it was not pretty.

Over the course of the next year we tried several times to reconcile, but each time it never got beyond a single dinner together. It was obvious that we were never going to find a resolution to our differences in this life, and finally we both moved on.

Shortly thereafter, and before I moved out of the building where Rory and I had separate apartments, I ended up becoming infatuated with the ex of my next door neighbor. Ron and I actually became friends. But a year later I finally confessed that I loved him and—after him all but laughing in my face by saying, "How could I fall in love with you?" We parted company.

At this point—a little more than halfway through the decade—I'd had enough of San Francisco. Additionally I'd reached the point after eight and a half years with the same architectural office I'd worked at since shortly after arriving in the City, that I'd stopped caring whether public toilets needed to be spaced at 2'-6" or 2'-8" on center—and knew I needed to make a change. After an early abortive attempt to leave The City at the start of 1995 failed, I successfully cut my ties returned to Tucson that summer.

Tucson was the wonderful change I needed. I moved back into the apartment complex I'd lived in right before relocating to San Francisco ten years earlier, and it genuinely felt good to be back. The first thunderstorm that rumbled through in August gave me chills and the smell of creosote in the air afterward was a slice of heaven.

Employment, however was a struggle, I'd hoped to get my foot in the door somewhere doing PC tech support, but it was obvious that wasn't going to happen because there was just no demand in Tucson at the time. So, after first working as an 1099 contractor creating production documents for a small, one-man builder, when the opportunity presented itself to work for one of Tucson's premier residential architects, I jumped on it. Hell, if I was going to be stuck in architecture for a while longer I might as well work somewhere interesting. But even that had issues. As I recall the pay was decent and I had full benefits, but the narcissism that went along with working for such a personality was wearing and I was summarily ignored when I offered suggestions based on my own experience on how to improve workflow or customize AutoCAD.

Along the same time another mess came knocking at my door in the form of Emmett Higgin. People warned me about Emmett, but did I listen?

Of course not.

In a nutshell, after dating for about three months, I learned Emmett was dating at least two other men on the downlow—while still living with and involved with his supposed ex. By the time this came to a head, I realized the old adage, "No matter where you go, there you are," was more truth than fiction. Even though I'd changed geographic locations, my relationship drama, the ongoing emotional fallout from Rory, had come right along with me.

I remember meeting one of the other guys Emmett was dating (a friend of my ex—for whom Emmett's behavior also came as a shock) one evening, and after comparing notes, the next time Mr. Higgin and I got together I told him I knew about everything that was going on and demanded that he get the fuck out of my life. Thankfully, he obliged.

This, combined with the ongoing narcissism of my employer, this was the straw that broke the camel's back. It was time to go home; to return to San Francisco and face my demons head-on.

(to be continued…)

I Remember You

This was playing when we walked into Starbucks this afternoon. I haven't heard the song in years.

I always associated it with my life in San Francisco, especially in regard to my 1998 return to The City. It was pumping out of my car stereo as I first crossed the Bay Bridge that one particular afternoon, and is forever burned into memory in that context.

Welcome to San Francisco

I had been in San Francisco for about five months. One weekend afternoon my newly-minted friend Kevin (also new to The City) and I decided to go exploring, so we bought tickets to the ferry and headed out to Alcatraz Island. The weather started out well, but by mid afternoon after we'd finished the tour and were ready to head home, clouds moved in and an epic downpour started. While we sheltered in one of the old guard shacks near the dock waiting for the ferry, one of the park rangers at the visitor center caught my eye. I do so love a man in uniform. But who doesn't? He was blond, bearish, and as I remember, sported an enormous mustache as did most guys in 1987. I guess I was being less than discreet, because I'd apparently caught his eye as well.

When the ferry finally arrived, like two drowned rats Kevin and I made our way to the dock, where said ranger was assisting passengers boarding the ferry. As we walked past, our eyes locked on each other and he said, "Hope you enjoyed your visit. Come back any time!"

I took that as an invitation…or maybe a dare. Kevin and I looked at each other after we'd boarded and Kevin said, "He was so flirting with you." "No way!" I said. "He was just being friendly." (Not believing a word, even as I was speaking it.)

As the week passed, I couldn't get that ranger's face out of my head. I resolved that first thing Saturday, I'd head back out to the island.

He wasn't at the visitor center when I arrived, and I was worried that I happened to return on one of his days off. After wandering the island for a half hour or so I returned to the center and asked if he was working, and they said yes; he was leading a tour in the cellblock—the one place I failed to look.

When I caught up with the tour group and he saw me standing there, he literally lost track of what he was saying and a big smile spread across his face.

After the tour ended, he asked what I was doing there and I said, "Hoping to run into you again."

"I'm just about ready to go on my lunch break. Would you like to join me?"

Duh.

We sat on a bench that afforded an incredible view of the city, and after finishing his sandwich, Jay gave me a private tour, including several "restricted" areas on the northwest side of the island.

No Virginia, we did not fornicate. But we did make out for pretty much the remainder of his break on a grassy area by the prison laundry.

We exchanged numbers and made plans to go out later that week.

It was at that dinner that he dropped the bomb: he would love to see where this would lead, but he was moving to Australia in two weeks and didn't think it would be fair to get involved with anyone only to say goodbye such a short time later.

We got together once more after that, and then as quickly as he'd come into my life, Jay was gone. And we never did get naked. Phone disconnected, a "For Rent" sign outside his flat, and all I had to remember him were my memories and a copy of "Gay Love Signs" he'd given me. I still have that book in a box somewhere.

Welcome to San Francisco, indeed.

A Disturbing Realization

As most of my readers already know, I lived in San Francisco for approximately sixteen years, encompassing my late 20s through early 40s.

The other morning, while laying awake at 4 am, memories of San Francisco started bubbling up. I don't know if it was my age/hormone level at the time I lived there, or whether it is something about The City itself, but going over my memories of San Francisco I came to the disturbing realization that the vast majority of those memories—okay, pretty much all my memories of life in San Francisco—revolved around getting laid or trying to get laid…under the guise of looking for true love, of course.

Naturally, during my time there I worked. I made friends. I went to movies and plays. I took photos, made art, read books, acquired new skills, spent way too much money on way too much stuff, and explored the natural beauty of the Bay Area. But it seems all that was nothing more than background noise amid the unrelenting need to connect.

I would like to think that I fell into that lifestyle over the course of several years, but if I'm being totally honest, I have to admit it started almost the minute boots were on the ground.

While I did date and had several serial boyfriends, the smorgasbord of carnal delights and availability of potential sexual partners literally anywhere in the City is no doubt why so many refer to those 49 square miles as "Disneyland for Adults" and none of those relationships actually lasted. "Cruisin' the Streets" is more than just an old Boys Town Gang song. You could connect with someone on the subway, waiting for the bus, on your lunch hour downtown, walking home after work—and either go right to your/their place, make plans to meet up later, or duck into an empty stairwell for a quickie; literally anywhere. Buena Vista Park, North Baker Beach, "the whispering bushes" and the southern convenience station at the polo field at the western end of Golden Gate Park, the Hyatt Embarcadero, the 1808 Club, the Shaklee building, the 11th Floor of the Russ Building, The Playground, the Sir Francis Drake, Mike's Night Gallery, the Sheraton Palace…

You get the idea. There was a lot of action going on in The City. All. The. Time.

Inspired to start keeping a record of my life in San Francisco after seeing Prick Up Your Ears about a year after my arrival there, my journals read like an embarrassing, depressing erotic novel, full of saucy but ultimately empty encounters, littered with the names of men of whom I now have no conscious memory. (Oh, to have had cell phone cameras back then!)

I can't help but think that in the wake of 9/11 and the added security everywhere that followed, most of those locales have long since been locked down, but I know how industrious and creative horny men can be, and despite the authorities' best efforts, trysts will still happen somewhere.

Before I moved to San Francisco, when my friend Kent (who had arrived about six years earlier) once related how he stopped to have sex with some guy he met while on the way to a date with another, I was appalled. I could not understand how such a thing could happen, much less that anyone would actually partake. Note I said before I moved there…

While that particular scenario never happened to me, it was apparently not that uncommon, and I had plenty of other equally lascivious encounters during that decade and a half to make up for it. To this day I'm still amazed that I made it out alive, somehow remained STD/AIDS free, and didn't end up with a police record.

Hard To Believe It's Been Thirty Years

1645 Folsom Street, #7. My first—non-shared—apartment in San Francisco. September/October 1987.

It wasn't perfect, but it was one of those places I immediately think of when I hear the word "home."

At the time, the area was still very much industrial/commercial in nature. The building was a half block from Hamburger Mary's and just around the corner from the SF Eagle. At $745 a month, this one bedroom plus den stretched my budget but I loved it. #7 overlooked the extremely shallow paved back yard (that was never used by anyone). It had a good southern exposure, even though the equally tall buildings completely surrounding the yard sometimes made it feel like it was at the bottom of a light well. It also had an easily accessible roof deck where you could throw a lounge chair and catch some rays or the wonderful views at night.

About eighteen months after I moved in, #9 opened up on the top floor, and I jumped on it. It wasn't quite as big as #7 (no separate den), but it was bright and airy, had a charming—if non working—fireplace, and a decent view of Twin Peaks if you stood in either of the bay windows.

The biggest adjustment moving upstairs to the opposite side of the building was the noise. Sleep was impossible with the windows open for the first few nights I was there because I was now facing Folsom, and even then it was a busy thoroughfare. But when the winter rains started sound of drops hitting the pavement and the woosh-woosh of cars passing on those wet nights more than made up for it. Parking (or lack thereof) continued to be a problem; I can't even begin to tell you how many hundreds of dollars in $10 overnight street-cleaning parking tickets I racked up. But this was still home, and after I struck an arrangement with one of the business owners a few doors down to rent a parking space in their lot for $25 a month, the parking problem all but disappeared.

Then there was the stove in #9. It apparently hadn't received a proper cleaning since it was originally put in place from the looks of it. I made the mistake one night of lifting up the range top, thinking I'd only have to wipe up a few spills under the burners, but I ended up spending the entire evening—with a putty knife—scarping off god knows how many years of accumulated gunk. But it shined thereafter!

This is where I was living when the Loma Prieta quake hit in 1989. The building came through with nary a scratch, but it pointed out the disadvantage of living in that particular area; probably because of its zoning and demographics, it was one of the last areas of The City to regain power. Even so, if I hadn't made a very poor decision some months earlier and asked an even poorer decision of a romantic partner to move in with me, I might've stayed much longer. As it was, we transferred the lease into his name and I moved out in 1990.

1645 today…or at least as of last April, courtesy Google.

Down The Rabbit Hole

When I'm not otherwise occupied at work, I've found that an excellent way to make time pass in the blink of an eye is to get on Google Maps/Street View.

I spotted this photo over on Shorpy the other day. It was labeled, "Card Alley, San Francisco, February 1936." I'd never heard of Card Alley, so I figured it was either one of the multitude of half-block long streets that dot downtown, or it was no longer in existence.

The former proved to be the case, because I hopped on Google Maps and found it almost immediately, Surprisingly it still looks very similar.

Once in San Francisco, however, I started exploring. First it was all the places I'd lived. (It looks like many of the buildings had changed ownership because they were actually being kept up now.) From there I started visiting all my old haunts, my workplaces (the small architectural office where I worked 8 years is now a vacant lot adjacent to a condo complex), my daily commute (I actually walked that much?!?). And from there I moved out of the city proper to visit a few of my other favorite places: the Marin Headlands, Sausilito, and then points further afield.

I found myself awash in a curious mix of emotions, a lot of which I can't even find words for. Obviously there was sadness, a sense of loss tinged with regret at having never done all the things I'd wanted to do (because there was always next week, next month, next year)…but there was also joy and that feeling of "home" I always experienced when I was there. I've always said San Francisco was a very jealous mistress, but one that would welcome you back in a heartbeat with open arms should you stray and then return.

I think that's one of the reasons I haven't gone back since my departure in 2002. I fear that Siren will grip me and demand my return to her bosom as it did the last time I left. (Granted, that was only an absence of about six months, not fifteen years, so my fears may be groundless.)

And—perhaps most fortunately for me to resist that siren song—as I noted even while living there in my 20s and 30s, is that it remains a city of and for the young…and most recently, a city of the insanely wealthy young, a demographic that I decidedly do not fall into. I remember balking at having to pay $1300 a month for a one bedroom apartment with off-street garage parking and a view of downtown on Twin Peaks in 2002. Nowadays, $1300 might get you a mother-in-law studio apartment in the back of a garage in the Outer Sunset.—if you're lucky.

But it was still a fun little virtual visit and I plan on returning for further exploration the next time I'm sitting at work with nothing to do and waiting for the day to end.

5,253 Days

That's how long I lived in San Francisco.

The other day I realized that I've now probably been gone from The City longer than I actually lived there. Some calculations verified that suspicion. I've been gone—and haven't even been back for a visit—for 5,367 days.

Based on two prior attempts to leave The City's siren call, when I returned to Phoenix in 2002, I had assumed it would be short term; a port to weather the economic storm that gripped the country post 9/11. But then something happened. I actually grew to like it here.

And then cancer diagnosis arrived. I came out of the ordeal a changed person; I looked at the Mark who existed prior to the diagnosis and wanted nothing more to do with him—and by extension the city that had contributed so much to who he had become.

To be honest, the intervening years have produced an occasional pang of homesickness when I stumble across a particularly stunning photograph of The City, but it passes quickly when I realize how circumstances brought me to the beautiful life I have now with Ben and that San Francisco has very much become a city for the young and obscenely wealthy; two demographics to which I definitely do not belong.

I Almost Didn't Recognize This

…which is surprising considering how much tenant improvement work we did in the small, 5-story building at the center of the frame over the span of the 8 years I worked for H&M in San Francisco. And then I realized that I've nearly been gone from The City as long as the total number of years I lived there and now I'm wondering how much longer 30 Van Ness is for this world since it's now being surrounded by newer, shinier neighbors.