You Can Never Go Home

It was rather slow at work yesterday, so after reimaging a PC that had come back in, when it was finished I fired up Windows maps. I never realized that the app had a street view like Google, so for kicks I flew over San Francisco and dropped in on my one-time home.

I'd visited downtown several times via Google (getting totally lost and not recognizing a thing any more), but for some reason I'd never ventured into my old hoods. It was near lunchtime and I was hungry, so I decided to take a peek at some of my old haunts.

I got sad very quickly.

You know you're old when you can't find any of the places you used to visit on a regular basis because they've been sold, repurposed, or completely torn down to make room for yet more overpriced condos.

Sparky's on Church Street is one example that lept out at me. Microsoft's street view was from 2014 and the place seemed to still be in business, although the vegetarian place just up the street seemed to have changed hands. Knowing Google's views were more recent I switched over and to my disappointment saw that Sparky's was now closed and the space was marked "for lease."

This of course led me on a web search to learn it's fate, and I discovered it's been closed nearly four years, most recently shut down by the Health Department for various violations. (TBH, not surprising.)

So then I "wandered" up Market Street. Sweet Inspiration was also gone. When I lived in the City, that was the preferred spot to meet up with someone you just met from AOL or one of the many gay BBS boards before actually getting down to business. (Yes, Virginia, I'm that old.)

Streetlight Records, while still appearing on the 2014 street view image on Google, is gone.

Just like downtown, Upper Market was basically unrecognizable to me. The spot formerly occupied by Tower Records (which was obviously in distress when I left the City in 2002) is now a CVS Pharmacy. The hole in the ground at the corner of Market and Noe was now (finally!) filled in with new housing. My favorite Chinese place in the Castro, House of Chen—which I'd gone to almost as many times as Rosie's Cantina*—was on street view, but a further search revealed that it too, had been shuttered.

Don't even get me started on Castro Street itself.

Let's just say that by the time I tore myself away from this virtual visit, I was heartbroken to see what had happened to my city and the neighborhoods I had called home. A lot of unresolved emotions were triggered, and I was forced to admit that the sixteen years I lived there were not really as happy and carefree as I'd like to remember; there was a profound loneliness underlying my time in The City (explaining some of the questionable choices I'd made and equally questionable things I'd done while there) and I really have no desire to ever go back.

I used to say that there are two San Franciscos that live in my consciousness: the one that lives in my memories and the one that lives in my dreams (aspects of that place are always off the rails). But I fear I must add a third; the City I no longer recognize.

I discussed this with Ben last night, and he pointed out that the changes that have happened in Phoenix since our return from Denver are just as jarring when you step outside the insulation of daily life living here. No doubt we would both be shocked if we'd returned now, not having lived through the ongoing changes of the last five years, and I'm sure that if I'd somehow remained in SF, the changes I see there now would also seem just as natural.

 

*I thought I'd posted about Rosie's some time ago, but apparently that was in the blog that I'd deleted before we moved to Denver. I'll have to post it again…

Prime Time (Part Two)

While the drama had been brewing with Emmett, I'd been in touch with a my longtime friend Michael in San Francisco. He and I had met on an inbound MUNI train years earlier, and after a couple romps in the hay we both came to the realization that we both carried too much baggage that didn't match and we'd probably be better off as friends than lovers. When I'd made the decision it was time to return to Bagdad By The Bay, he suggested I move in with him until I found a place of my own. "I have big house all to myself. You'd have your own room downstairs and I'd be glad to have the company."

Your host and Mary, my ex's mom, who really didn't want me to leave Tucson.

Michael lived out in the Avenues. Not my first choice of where in the city I'd ever want to live, but his offer to crash there until I found work and got a place of my own was too good to pass up. So, the first weekend in December, Michael flew down (to drive my car while I drove the rental truck) to Tucson and helped me pack up, load the truck and get out of town.

As I recall, a job arrived pretty quickly, even though I wasn't able to return to the firm I'd worked for the previous eight years. I still wasn't able to transition into PC support, but a job's a job and since I had the architectural and AutoCAD skillz, any port in a storm, y'know?

Unfortunately, instead of staying put at that prestigious national firm, when the opportunity arose for me to go elsewhere  and actually get my foot in the door doing computer support work, I jumped on it.

While I prided myself on my PC knowledge, I soon found out I was in over my head. I knew the ins-and-outs of Microsoft Word, but not to the degree required by a Law Firm. Additionally it was a whole new world for me to be dealing with end users, many of whom were difficult at best and—being a Law Firm—hellspawn at worst. I got minimal support from the two other people on the Help Desk and next to none from my supervisor. I was miserable.

In one of those odd twists of fate, however, one day while returning from lunch, I ran into a guy I'd worked with in Phoenix twelve years earlier. I knew Fred had relocated to San Francisco, but lost touch with him shortly after he left the firm where we both worked.

Fred now had his own business. We chatted briefly and I told him of my employment woes. "I'm looking for people," he said. "Here's my card. Come by next week and we'll see if we can come to a mutually beneficial agreement."

And thus began two years of employment hell that was to send me back to Arizona again.

(To be continued…)

Prime Time (Part One)

I still find it hard to believe that 1990 was thirty years ago.

As the calendar turned over from 1989 to 1990, I was a little over a year into my thirties, a time in life that my dad often told me would be my best.

Unfortunately it wasn't.

If the specter of AIDS and friends dropping dead almost weekly weren't enough of a "prime time" buzzkill, I wasted a good portion of the decade pining over a man who would never—who could never—be the man I so desperately wanted him to be.

From the moment our eyes first locked on the outbound L-train at the Montgomery MUNI station, I knew he was going to be trouble. That did not, however, prevent me from bounding off the train after he turned and winked at me when he got off at the Civic Center station—even though it wasn't my stop and getting a seat on the next outbound train was going to be a bitch.

To this day I still don't know what lesson the Rory Hansen affair was meant to teach me. While he admitted shortly after we met to once having a problem with crystal meth, he assured me that he was clean and everything was under control. Nothing in his behavior indicated otherwise, so I took him at his word. It wasn't until a year or so later that his behavior changed, no doubt prompted in no small part by my own manic behavior in trying to get him to commit to something more than just casual dating. There was a lot going on behind the scenes (his bisexuality, his continuing deep emotional attachment to his tweeker ex) as well, and it was obvious it was not under control. When we finally split up it was not pretty.

Over the course of the next year we tried several times to reconcile, but each time it never got beyond a single dinner together. It was obvious that we were never going to find a resolution to our differences in this life, and finally we both moved on.

Shortly thereafter, and before I moved out of the building where Rory and I had separate apartments, I ended up becoming infatuated with the ex of my next door neighbor. Ron and I actually became friends. But a year later I finally confessed that I loved him and—after him all but laughing in my face by saying, "How could I fall in love with you?" We parted company.

At this point—a little more than halfway through the decade—I'd had enough of San Francisco. Additionally I'd reached the point after eight and a half years with the same architectural office I'd worked at since shortly after arriving in the City, that I'd stopped caring whether public toilets needed to be spaced at 2'-6" or 2'-8" on center—and knew I needed to make a change. After an early abortive attempt to leave The City at the start of 1995 failed, I successfully cut my ties returned to Tucson that summer.

Tucson was the wonderful change I needed. I moved back into the apartment complex I'd lived in right before relocating to San Francisco ten years earlier, and it genuinely felt good to be back. The first thunderstorm that rumbled through in August gave me chills and the smell of creosote in the air afterward was a slice of heaven.

Employment, however was a struggle, I'd hoped to get my foot in the door somewhere doing PC tech support, but it was obvious that wasn't going to happen because there was just no demand in Tucson at the time. So, after first working as an 1099 contractor creating production documents for a small, one-man builder, when the opportunity presented itself to work for one of Tucson's premier residential architects, I jumped on it. Hell, if I was going to be stuck in architecture for a while longer I might as well work somewhere interesting. But even that had issues. As I recall the pay was decent and I had full benefits, but the narcissism that went along with working for such a personality was wearing and I was summarily ignored when I offered suggestions based on my own experience on how to improve workflow or customize AutoCAD.

Along the same time another mess came knocking at my door in the form of Emmett Higgin. People warned me about Emmett, but did I listen?

Of course not.

In a nutshell, after dating for about three months, I learned Emmett was dating at least two other men on the downlow—while still living with and involved with his supposed ex. By the time this came to a head, I realized the old adage, "No matter where you go, there you are," was more truth than fiction. Even though I'd changed geographic locations, my relationship drama, the ongoing emotional fallout from Rory, had come right along with me.

I remember meeting one of the other guys Emmett was dating (a friend of my ex—for whom Emmett's behavior also came as a shock) one evening, and after comparing notes, the next time Mr. Higgin and I got together I told him I knew about everything that was going on and demanded that he get the fuck out of my life. Thankfully, he obliged.

This, combined with the ongoing narcissism of my employer, this was the straw that broke the camel's back. It was time to go home; to return to San Francisco and face my demons head-on.

(to be continued…)

I Remember You

This was playing when we walked into Starbucks this afternoon. I haven't heard the song in years.

I always associated it with my life in San Francisco, especially in regard to my 1998 return to The City. It was pumping out of my car stereo as I first crossed the Bay Bridge that one particular afternoon, and is forever burned into memory in that context.

Welcome to San Francisco

I had been in San Francisco for about five months. One weekend afternoon my newly-minted friend Kevin (also new to The City) and I decided to go exploring, so we bought tickets to the ferry and headed out to Alcatraz Island. The weather started out well, but by mid afternoon after we'd finished the tour and were ready to head home, clouds moved in and an epic downpour started. While we sheltered in one of the old guard shacks near the dock waiting for the ferry, one of the park rangers at the visitor center caught my eye. I do so love a man in uniform. But who doesn't? He was blond, bearish, and as I remember, sported an enormous mustache as did most guys in 1987. I guess I was being less than discreet, because I'd apparently caught his eye as well.

When the ferry finally arrived, like two drowned rats Kevin and I made our way to the dock, where said ranger was assisting passengers boarding the ferry. As we walked past, our eyes locked on each other and he said, "Hope you enjoyed your visit. Come back any time!"

I took that as an invitation…or maybe a dare. Kevin and I looked at each other after we'd boarded and Kevin said, "He was so flirting with you." "No way!" I said. "He was just being friendly." (Not believing a word, even as I was speaking it.)

As the week passed, I couldn't get that ranger's face out of my head. I resolved that first thing Saturday, I'd head back out to the island.

He wasn't at the visitor center when I arrived, and I was worried that I happened to return on one of his days off. After wandering the island for a half hour or so I returned to the center and asked if he was working, and they said yes; he was leading a tour in the cellblock—the one place I failed to look.

When I caught up with the tour group and he saw me standing there, he literally lost track of what he was saying and a big smile spread across his face.

After the tour ended, he asked what I was doing there and I said, "Hoping to run into you again."

"I'm just about ready to go on my lunch break. Would you like to join me?"

Duh.

We sat on a bench that afforded an incredible view of the city, and after finishing his sandwich, Jay gave me a private tour, including several "restricted" areas on the northwest side of the island.

No Virginia, we did not fornicate. But we did make out for pretty much the remainder of his break on a grassy area by the prison laundry.

We exchanged numbers and made plans to go out later that week.

It was at that dinner that he dropped the bomb: he would love to see where this would lead, but he was moving to Australia in two weeks and didn't think it would be fair to get involved with anyone only to say goodbye such a short time later.

We got together once more after that, and then as quickly as he'd come into my life, Jay was gone. And we never did get naked. Phone disconnected, a "For Rent" sign outside his flat, and all I had to remember him were my memories and a copy of "Gay Love Signs" he'd given me. I still have that book in a box somewhere.

Welcome to San Francisco, indeed.

A Disturbing Realization

As most of my readers already know, I lived in San Francisco for approximately sixteen years, encompassing my late 20s through early 40s.

The other morning, while laying awake at 4 am, memories of San Francisco started bubbling up. I don't know if it was my age/hormone level at the time I lived there, or whether it is something about The City itself, but going over my memories of San Francisco I came to the disturbing realization that the vast majority of those memories—okay, pretty much all my memories of life in San Francisco—revolved around getting laid or trying to get laid…under the guise of looking for true love, of course.

Naturally, during my time there I worked. I made friends. I went to movies and plays. I took photos, made art, read books, acquired new skills, spent way too much money on way too much stuff, and explored the natural beauty of the Bay Area. But it seems all that was nothing more than background noise amid the unrelenting need to connect.

I would like to think that I fell into that lifestyle over the course of several years, but if I'm being totally honest, I have to admit it started almost the minute boots were on the ground.

While I did date and had several serial boyfriends, the smorgasbord of carnal delights and availability of potential sexual partners literally anywhere in the City is no doubt why so many refer to those 49 square miles as "Disneyland for Adults" and none of those relationships actually lasted. "Cruisin' the Streets" is more than just an old Boys Town Gang song. You could connect with someone on the subway, waiting for the bus, on your lunch hour downtown, walking home after work—and either go right to your/their place, make plans to meet up later, or duck into an empty stairwell for a quickie; literally anywhere. Buena Vista Park, North Baker Beach, "the whispering bushes" and the southern convenience station at the polo field at the western end of Golden Gate Park, the Hyatt Embarcadero, the 1808 Club, the Shaklee building, the 11th Floor of the Russ Building, The Playground, the Sir Francis Drake, Mike's Night Gallery, the Sheraton Palace…

You get the idea. There was a lot of action going on in The City. All. The. Time.

Inspired to start keeping a record of my life in San Francisco after seeing Prick Up Your Ears about a year after my arrival there, my journals read like an embarrassing, depressing erotic novel, full of saucy but ultimately empty encounters, littered with the names of men of whom I now have no conscious memory. (Oh, to have had cell phone cameras back then!)

I can't help but think that in the wake of 9/11 and the added security everywhere that followed, most of those locales have long since been locked down, but I know how industrious and creative horny men can be, and despite the authorities' best efforts, trysts will still happen somewhere.

Before I moved to San Francisco, when my friend Kent (who had arrived about six years earlier) once related how he stopped to have sex with some guy he met while on the way to a date with another, I was appalled. I could not understand how such a thing could happen, much less that anyone would actually partake. Note I said before I moved there…

While that particular scenario never happened to me, it was apparently not that uncommon, and I had plenty of other equally lascivious encounters during that decade and a half to make up for it. To this day I'm still amazed that I made it out alive, somehow remained STD/AIDS free, and didn't end up with a police record.

Hard To Believe It's Been Thirty Years

1645 Folsom Street, #7. My first—non-shared—apartment in San Francisco. September/October 1987.

It wasn't perfect, but it was one of those places I immediately think of when I hear the word "home."

At the time, the area was still very much industrial/commercial in nature. The building was a half block from Hamburger Mary's and just around the corner from the SF Eagle. At $745 a month, this one bedroom plus den stretched my budget but I loved it. #7 overlooked the extremely shallow paved back yard (that was never used by anyone). It had a good southern exposure, even though the equally tall buildings completely surrounding the yard sometimes made it feel like it was at the bottom of a light well. It also had an easily accessible roof deck where you could throw a lounge chair and catch some rays or the wonderful views at night.

About eighteen months after I moved in, #9 opened up on the top floor, and I jumped on it. It wasn't quite as big as #7 (no separate den), but it was bright and airy, had a charming—if non working—fireplace, and a decent view of Twin Peaks if you stood in either of the bay windows.

The biggest adjustment moving upstairs to the opposite side of the building was the noise. Sleep was impossible with the windows open for the first few nights I was there because I was now facing Folsom, and even then it was a busy thoroughfare. But when the winter rains started sound of drops hitting the pavement and the woosh-woosh of cars passing on those wet nights more than made up for it. Parking (or lack thereof) continued to be a problem; I can't even begin to tell you how many hundreds of dollars in $10 overnight street-cleaning parking tickets I racked up. But this was still home, and after I struck an arrangement with one of the business owners a few doors down to rent a parking space in their lot for $25 a month, the parking problem all but disappeared.

Then there was the stove in #9. It apparently hadn't received a proper cleaning since it was originally put in place from the looks of it. I made the mistake one night of lifting up the range top, thinking I'd only have to wipe up a few spills under the burners, but I ended up spending the entire evening—with a putty knife—scarping off god knows how many years of accumulated gunk. But it shined thereafter!

This is where I was living when the Loma Prieta quake hit in 1989. The building came through with nary a scratch, but it pointed out the disadvantage of living in that particular area; probably because of its zoning and demographics, it was one of the last areas of The City to regain power. Even so, if I hadn't made a very poor decision some months earlier and asked an even poorer decision of a romantic partner to move in with me, I might've stayed much longer. As it was, we transferred the lease into his name and I moved out in 1990.

1645 today…or at least as of last April, courtesy Google.

Down The Rabbit Hole

When I'm not otherwise occupied at work, I've found that an excellent way to make time pass in the blink of an eye is to get on Google Maps/Street View.

I spotted this photo over on Shorpy the other day. It was labeled, "Card Alley, San Francisco, February 1936." I'd never heard of Card Alley, so I figured it was either one of the multitude of half-block long streets that dot downtown, or it was no longer in existence.

The former proved to be the case, because I hopped on Google Maps and found it almost immediately, Surprisingly it still looks very similar.

Once in San Francisco, however, I started exploring. First it was all the places I'd lived. (It looks like many of the buildings had changed ownership because they were actually being kept up now.) From there I started visiting all my old haunts, my workplaces (the small architectural office where I worked 8 years is now a vacant lot adjacent to a condo complex), my daily commute (I actually walked that much?!?). And from there I moved out of the city proper to visit a few of my other favorite places: the Marin Headlands, Sausilito, and then points further afield.

I found myself awash in a curious mix of emotions, a lot of which I can't even find words for. Obviously there was sadness, a sense of loss tinged with regret at having never done all the things I'd wanted to do (because there was always next week, next month, next year)…but there was also joy and that feeling of "home" I always experienced when I was there. I've always said San Francisco was a very jealous mistress, but one that would welcome you back in a heartbeat with open arms should you stray and then return.

I think that's one of the reasons I haven't gone back since my departure in 2002. I fear that Siren will grip me and demand my return to her bosom as it did the last time I left. (Granted, that was only an absence of about six months, not fifteen years, so my fears may be groundless.)

And—perhaps most fortunately for me to resist that siren song—as I noted even while living there in my 20s and 30s, is that it remains a city of and for the young…and most recently, a city of the insanely wealthy young, a demographic that I decidedly do not fall into. I remember balking at having to pay $1300 a month for a one bedroom apartment with off-street garage parking and a view of downtown on Twin Peaks in 2002. Nowadays, $1300 might get you a mother-in-law studio apartment in the back of a garage in the Outer Sunset.—if you're lucky.

But it was still a fun little virtual visit and I plan on returning for further exploration the next time I'm sitting at work with nothing to do and waiting for the day to end.

5,253 Days

That's how long I lived in San Francisco.

The other day I realized that I've now probably been gone from The City longer than I actually lived there. Some calculations verified that suspicion. I've been gone—and haven't even been back for a visit—for 5,367 days.

Based on two prior attempts to leave The City's siren call, when I returned to Phoenix in 2002, I had assumed it would be short term; a port to weather the economic storm that gripped the country post 9/11. But then something happened. I actually grew to like it here.

And then cancer diagnosis arrived. I came out of the ordeal a changed person; I looked at the Mark who existed prior to the diagnosis and wanted nothing more to do with him—and by extension the city that had contributed so much to who he had become.

To be honest, the intervening years have produced an occasional pang of homesickness when I stumble across a particularly stunning photograph of The City, but it passes quickly when I realize how circumstances brought me to the beautiful life I have now with Ben and that San Francisco has very much become a city for the young and obscenely wealthy; two demographics to which I definitely do not belong.

I Almost Didn't Recognize This

…which is surprising considering how much tenant improvement work we did in the small, 5-story building at the center of the frame over the span of the 8 years I worked for H&M in San Francisco. And then I realized that I've nearly been gone from The City as long as the total number of years I lived there and now I'm wondering how much longer 30 Van Ness is for this world since it's now being surrounded by newer, shinier neighbors.

Scenes from San Francisco, 1993

I still find it amazing that for all the years I lived in San Francisco—inarguably one the most photogenic cities in the United States—I have so few photos of The City itself. Again and again I used to say, "I really need to grab my camera and just start walking the neighborhoods," but like going to the Monterey Bay Aquarium—something else that kept getting put off "because it'll always be there"—one day I woke up and realized I no longer had the opportunity.

But every so often I did get out…

Unintended Consequences

One of the unintended consequences of scanning my dad's photo albums is discovering that I have about twenty years of my own photos that have never been digitized. I realized this while trying to locate some of Dad's photos that I knew I'd pulled from his albums over the past couple years and never put back.

I didn't really find what I was looking for, but it prompted another scanning project that I started last weekend.

I've already started posting some of my favorites.  I'll continue to do so as I make my slowly through the mountains of photos I took.

As always, you can click on any of them to get full size.

Where Are They Now?

I have several "iconic" photos in my collection from the 16 years I lived in San Francisco.  Among them are these two that I shot in the late summer of 1987.

This beautiful young thing used to often be seen at the corner of Castro and 18th playing her Casio keyboard and caterwauling into the night while trying to sell her cassettes to passers-by. I was quite surprised to find her downtown one day—and during daylight hours no less—so having wanted to get a photo of her for quite some time, I took the opportunity presented by a crowded sidewalk and grabbed one of her unaware…

This lady was a fixture downtown from 1987 until I left San Francisco (for the first time) in 1995. One Saturday afternoon I ran into her after she had been thrown out of a Subway Restaurant. Having witnessed the altercation while I was eating, when I finished I walked outside found her sitting a few hundred feet away. I walked up to her and told her I'd seen how horribly she'd been treated by the staff at Subway and asked if I could buy her lunch. She readily accepted the offer and the two of us walked back into the shop together. The sales clerk said, "I told you to get OUT!" at which point I looked at her and said, "She's with me, and I'm buying her lunch. Do you want me to take my money elsewhere?"

She got her lunch.

Several days later I ran into her again, and she recognized me from the previous encounter and thanked me once again for the meal.

I often wonder whatever happened to these women…

SO True!

This was one of my first observations about San Francisco upon moving there in the 80s. Apparently nothing has changed. Doesn't anybody work in this town?!?